Bun Benchmark: Binh Minh Quan

Bun Benchmark: Binh Minh Quan

or,

Binh, Bun Bench.

Having at least sampled the various bun permutations at every Vietnamese joint within walking distance of downtown at one time or another I can authoritatively assure you that the best is at BMQ.



Here we have BMQ's bun thit, a good example of what makes their bun the best around here. The vegetables are a nice balance of impeccably fresh mint, bean sprouts, daikon, carrot and cucumber, not skewed heavily toward sprouts and iceberg lettuce as one often finds. The ample share of cukes in particular elevates the freshness of the bun.

The rice noodles are the skinnier variety, which to me is preferable to the more common thicker, almost unnaturally white version. They are crowned with ribbons of slightly chewy grilled pork, topped in turn with well-roasted, deeply nutty peanuts, a few translucent, crispy cubes of fried pork skin, and a light scattering of green onions, lightly sautéed-"oiled green onions" in the menu's charming parlance.

The bun sports enough bright, fresh mint sprigs to deliver a minty hit whenever one is desired, amping up the flavor, particularly in concert with the chunky chile paste. The pale-hued nuoc cham is well-balanced between salty nam pla and vinegar.

While the portion is a bit smaller than the cheaper places' offerings, I am always well-satisfied when polishing off a bun from BMQ- if anything the others are too big. $6.50 all in.


Binh Minh Quan
338 12th between Harrison & Webster
893.8136

Rocky's Burgers Understands Medium-Rare

Rocky's Burgers understands medium-rare.

Conditions called for a cheeseburger so I headed to Rocky's, tucked behind the State Bldg. on 15th. They have a San Francisco magazine cover in which they were once named "one of the tastiest spots for meals under $10" framed on the wall. Where they score major points with me is that you can call your doneness here and actually get what you ask for; in my case, medium rare.

Rocky's cheeseburger is a 1/3 lb. "fresh, never frozen" patty with a mayo-based dressing (like 1000 island but less so, say, 98-3/4 islands) dabbed onto both top and bottom sesame-seeded white buns (wheat available if that's your bag), which get a light toasting. Lettuce, tomato and a dill pickle chip repose under the patty; sautéed onions and a thick slice of Tillamook cheddar ride on top. While as with most places you will occasionally get the whitish iceberg core or two, today's burger had fresh, crispy green leaves. The slight char on the outside attests to the advertised flame-broiledness with broad grill marks, and the burger blushes pink inside- good textbook medium-rare. That alone would atone for a multitude of sins if Rocky's needed to. $4.77 all in (I eschew fries, shakes etc.).

Even with a bit of a crowd I had a brief wait- I didn't finish the East Bay Express restaurant review. I never bother phoning in my orders here.

Rocky's, "An Old-Fashioned Hamburger and Cheese Steak Stand."

597 15th

891.3990

Cat-Po

A lovely cat-po.

Lady's Place is a welcome addition to the downtown OAK dining roster, serving Cajun-Creole dishes with breakfast, sandwiches and specials such as barbecue on Wednesdays. So far all I can vouch for is the catfish poboy, or "cat-po" as the friendly lady at the register and phone refers to it when calling back to Aunty Lady in the kitchen. And vouch I shall.

The only hint of what lies within the lobby of the Latham Sq. building at the foot of Telegraph Ave is a small sandwich board on the sidewalk. On my first visit, I found the place just as I was about to ask the security guard at the desk where the heck it was- it is down a few short steps just to the right of the desk. I phoned in my order, which was done in less than the 10 minutes you are invariably quoted when calling in for takeout anywhere around here at lunch.

What we have here is a nondescript soft roll as vehicle for 2 nice pieces of fresh, well-fried and not at all greasy catfish in a light cornmeal crust, accompanied by mayo, lettuce, tomato, a ring or two of pickled yellow pepper, and a wisp of thinly-sliced red onion. Add some Tabasco and you're in business- no Acme Oyster House flashbacks, but this is a good sandwich, and unique in the area. I had a bag of Zapp's Jalapeno potato chips from Cost Plus on hand (which I highly recommend by the way) or I'd have added a side of hush puppies or collards. $5.71, ex-Zapp's.


Lady's Place
1611 Telegraph aka 508 16th
832.5239

A worthy meatloaf sandwich

Rico's has a meatloaf sandwich as a permanent menu item, but Wednesdays meatloaf is a special main, so I chose today to try the sandwich, and I'm pretty sure I didn't get last Wednesday's meatloaf. Described as "Mom's meatloaf, our special gravy, lettuce & tomato," this comes on a superb toasted Acme torpedo roll, lightly toasted inside & out, lightly buttered inside. Nice attention to detail.

The meatloaf, while mixed with a bit more breadcrumbs than I'd use, is pleasantly moist with a hint of a ketchup glaze on the outside, and held together quite well as I set about eating it. It is accompanied by nice crisp leaf lettuce and thin slices of tomato, brought together by a judicious dab of mayo on the bottom of the roll. I'd add pickle, but that's just me.

I got the gravy on the side. The gravy is not overly salty as it could easily be, nor too evocative of those sauce packets in supermarkets; best described as innocuous, I was glad I put it on.

Overall, a satisfying offering from Rico's, and something to bear in mind, even if only on Wednesdays. $6.80 all in.

Rico's Diner

400 15th St.
444-8424

I don't bother phoning orders in here, they come out fast and you can read the Oaksterdam News while waiting.

I need to figure out how to reduce photos from their currently frightening state when clicked on...

Another First Post: Szechuan Eggplant, Shan Dong

I am not an eggplant freak- having devoured a BLT (homemade) at my desk for breakfast, I just felt like I needed a vegetarian lunch.

The Szechuan eggplant at Shan Dong today sported well-sauteed, firm, and not at all greasy wedges of eggplant, sauced lightly, and was thankfully not as sweet as other Shan Dong dishes I have had.
They go light on the garlic- it's decidedly in the background, leaving one predominantly with the flavor of eggplant, which is not a bad thing. They also have a light hand with the chile element, chile icon on the takeout menu notwithstanding. This has been my experience with other Shan Dong dishes as well.

Good, if a little bland, Shan Dong scores points on this dish for not overshooting on the oil and sweetness. $6.50 all in.

Shan Dong

328 10th St.

839-2299

A First Post: Trorb trung kor, Battambang

Consider this a test- one day last week I had the stuffed eggplant at Battambang, an old favorite. It's on the "Sauteed" part of the menu and described as "baked eggplant stuffed with diced prawns and ground pork in lime sauce." The ground pork, together with the firm chunks of shrimp and complex, slightly spicy red sauce complement the ample portion of eggplant nicely. Cambodian comfort food. $8.20 all in.

Battambang

800 Broadway

839-8815

Pictures may well suck for awhile; Luddite that I am, I am only beginning to familiarize myself with my shiny new digital camera.